Wine Talkers – by Janet Eastman

Mike Hite and Paul Becking of C Street Bistro

Winemakers have to eat, too. And when these pros with well-trained palates are hungry, they know how to sniff out the best restaurants.

Something bland, something boring, something “off” triggers a snarl in them faster than a cranky teenager separated from her cellphone. On the flipside, if a dish is intoxicatingly fresh and precisely paired with other thrilling tastes, wham-O. Winemakers are happy.

Lean in closely and I’ll reveal a new place where Applegate Valley vintners go when they don’t feel like cooking: C Street Bistro.
In a tiny cottage tucked a few blocks off Jacksonville’s main street, winemakers gather with friends, family and fans. Here, Chefs Paul Becking and Michael Hite are having fun, too, partnering with Oregon farmers, ranchers and fishermen to create dishes that excite.
What does it take to get the attention of enologists fatigued by a day of evaluating immature wine, dosing out sulfur and listening to alcohol-control officials? Hmmmm…

How about barbecue pulled pork on a sweet cornbread pancake ($8) and duck confit waffle with egg ($14). Even the potentially humble lunch burger has a captivating story: The 6-ounce prime top sirloin patties are ground to order and cooked one at a time ($10 with sea-salt fingerling potatoes; add $3-$5 to top the burger with house-cured pastrami; mushroom, Gruyere and truffle mayo; or bacon jam, smoked bacon and pickled onions).

Friday’s and Saturday’s three-course dinners ($30; $45 with wine) change every week and deliver sky’s-the-limit pleasure. Dishes are inspired by one winery and the chefs’ wild imaginations.

For a RoxyAnn winemakers’ dinner in mid August, the amuse-bouche was a tempura squash blossom from Walker Creek Farms stuffed with king crab cream cheese and served with a sweet chili aioli. The first course was Port Orford’s seared albacore with Runnymeade Farm’s string beans, heirloom tomatoes, cucumbers and corn topped with a Muscatel vinaigrette. The salad was paired with RoxyAnn 2009 Pinot Gris.

The main course was a Moroccan-spiced lamb leg with Fort Vanoy Farms’ crispy polenta served with RoxyAnn 2008 Claret. Dessert was a tangy clafoutis made with blackberries and white peaches grown at Hanley Farm.

It’s no wonder that the chefs’ skills with in-season and locally produced food are applauded by another kind of flavor juggler – winemakers.

On a sunny day in August, Anne Root of EdenVale dropped in to chat with the chefs. This was weeks after her 2009 Viognier was served with – and was an ingredient in – Chef Becking’s miso-marinated black cod and grilled Japanese eggplant. Sometimes he adds barbecued rice balls to this dish.

Rachael and Les Martin of Red Lily Vineyards dine here, too, because their children – budding taste-bud experts – like to experiment as much as adults.

“Our kids even tried oysters for the first time there,” says Rachael. “We get the chefs’ weekly Facebook feeds and drool over their new menus.” She adds: “Being local business owners ourselves, we love to support other local places.”

Christine Collier and Chris Jiron of God King Slave Wines live on C Street. But they don’t frequent this bistro just because it’s in the neighborhood. “We love their farm-to-table concept,” says Collier, “and their new energy, talent and creativity in Jacksonville.”
The GKS duo debuted their 2009 Syrah and Tempranillo blend at C Street Bistro in late August. “We wanted to host a wine release party and it just seemed like a natural fit,” says Collier. “It is our regular hangout, so it was very comfortable to host something with them.”

Collier, who worked at a Willamette Valley winery before establishing her own label in the Rogue Valley, compares C Street Bistro to Nick’s Italian Café, the legendary winemaker haunt in downtown McMinnville. Nick’s motto: “Feeding Oregon’s Wine Country Since 1977.”

Before opening C Street Bistro in January, Chef Becking was part owner and executive chef of Elements in Santa Barbara, California. He moved here three years ago with his family. Chef Hite attended culinary school and worked in Portland restaurants before returning home to the Rogue.

Pity the winemakers left behind in those cities. Where do they eat?

C Street Bistro, 230 E. C Street, Jacksonville, 541-261-7638, www.cstbistro.com. Open Monday through Saturday, 9:30am to 2:30pm and Friday and Saturday, 5:00pm to 8:00pm

Janet Eastman covers food, wine and travel for national publications and websites. Her work can be seen at www.janeteastman.com.